London Fashion Week: Five ways the UK changed fashiON.
London Fashion Week kicks off tomorrow, with the UK
acknowledged as one of the fashion industry's biggest players. But it has also
changed fashion in ways not everybody knows.
London Fashion Week is starting just days after the UK capital was voted the most stylish city in the world, beating the likes of New York, Paris and Milan, in the ninth annual ranking of 55 global cities by US-based analytics company Global Language Monitor.
Here are some of the lesser-known ways the UK has paved the way for everything from Primark to Lady Gaga.
Artificial dye
The world became a much brighter place because of British research chemist William Henry Perkin, who was born in London in 1838. Aged just 18 he started trying to synthesize quinine, which was used for the treatment of malaria. Instead he came up with the synthetic dye aniline purple, also known as mauveine.
His accidental discovery resulted in the first
mass-produced artificial dye, which he named mauve.
The fact that you could make colour in a factory from chemicals rather than insects or plants was a revelation, says Simon Garfield, author of Mauve, which details Perkin's life and work.
"It was an astonishing breakthrough. This was something truly valuable because previously this shade could only be obtained from Mediterranean shellfish, and it took an awful lot of them to make a ballgown. Soon dyers in Germany learnt how to produce a rainbow of colours."
He was quick to realise the commercial potential of his discovery. In 1857 he obtained a patent and set up a business manufacturing aniline purple. Mauve became all the rage with the fashion industry and Perkin became the acknowledged expert on artificial dyes. He also became a very wealthy man.
Invented haute couture
While Paris is considered the home of haute couture, it was a Briton who taught the French what it was all about. Lincolnshire-born Charles Frederick Worth is widely regarded as the "father of haute couture".
Born in 1825 in Bourne, he worked in the UK before moving to Paris in 1845. Starting at a well-known Parisian drapers, he ended up establishing a dressmaking department for the company. His success resulted in him opening his own fashion house in 1858 called the House of Worth.
Worth created the template for fashion houses as we now know them. Known for his expert fitting and use of expensive materials, he created the first luxury brand and dressed celebrities of his day.
His was one of the first fashion houses to start showcasing designs at fashion shows, which he put on several times a year. Previously, dressmakers largely made what the customer asked for but Worth decided on his designs. He is also widely credited as the first designer to put labels in his designs and extend his name to perfume. Such luxury brands are now a global industry estimated to be worth £70bn by Verdict Research.
The House Of Worth shut down its couture operations in 1956 - concentrating on its perfume line. It was revived in the early 2000s and now includes Lady Gaga among its customers.
Personal style
The likes of rapper Nicki Minaj have a lot to thank Lady Lucy Duff-Gordon for. Known as Lucile, she was one of the first people to champion individualism in fashion.
Born in London in 1863, she became a leading fashion designer in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, shocking society with her radical outfits - particularly her lingerie.
"Rather than the idea of following trends that are applicable to everyone, her manner of design was to assess your character first and your dress was designed accordingly," says fashion historian and trend forecaster Amber Butchart.
Lucile paved the way for the likes of Nicki
Minaj "It was from the inward out, rather than a system being imposed on you in the form of fashion trends."
She dressed Edwardian high society and developed a following of glamorous and influential women wanting a bespoke "personality dress" designed for them. They included Queen Mary and the Queen of Spain.
Along with Worth, she was among the first designers to train professional fashion models and stage catwalk-style shows. The House of Lucile became one of the first global fashion brands, with boutiques in Paris, New York, Chicago and London.
"She was very revolutionary," says Lady Duff-Gordon's great, great, grand-daughter Camilla Blois, who revived the label this year and is about to launch its first lingerie collection.
"Her designs shocked, but also intrigued. They were creations that had never been seen before. They were all about the individual."
Meg's Magazine Mash Up: April Issue
Finally the warmer weather is rolling around here in New York, and I am certainly enjoying it! Looking back at my other Mash Ups I noticed that I have made a dress, pants, and skirt. So it just seemed right to make a top from this issue, which is perfect because as soon as I saw this Bodice Top sewing pattern from the April 2013 issue of burda style magazine I knew I wanted to make it.
I love this Bodice Top pattern for this time of year. The angled front and back style lines really caught my eye, and I also liked the aesthetic of the bust darts and thicker straps. If you were to check out my studio you can see I make a lot of spandex sewing projects. I thought this bustier top in particular would be great sewn in spandex, since it is form fitting.
All the small pattern pieces made it easy for me to use my scrap spandex! I had this amazing multicolored metallic spandex that reminisces the look of when oil is combined with water. A top purely in this spandex would be overwhelming, so I paneled it with a shiny black spandex I had. I love these two fabrics together!
This top pattern is originally pretty short in length (ends at belly button). I wanted it a bit longer so I could wear it with a pair of jeans and with bottoms that didn’t have a high waist. After I cut out the paper pieces I taped more paper and lengthened the hemline by 5". I extended all seams 5", and then drew a slight smooth curve to create a new hemline.
Since I am sewing with spandex I only need to use a serger, so only 1/4" seam allowance is needed on the piece edges. I decided to bind the neckline so I added no seam allowance to those edges. The front princess seams get sewn to the center front at marking, so I notched the seam allowance (bottom right image). For the hemline I added 3/4".
For the binding I folded the metallic spandex and cut a few strips long enough to cover each edge and 1" wide. I find it easiest to cut binding on a cutting mat with a ruler and rotary blade. I cut the center front panel in the colored metallic spandex and the sides in black. I thought this would be flattering on the figure and I really wanted that awesome metallic spandex to be front and center!
First was to sew the darts in the center front piece. You do not need the serger to sew the darts, just use a regular sewing machine on a small stitch length. DO NOT press these darts down, spandex does not like to be ironed (especially metallic).
Match up the seam allowance notch on the side pieces and sew to the top of the center front and back pieces. for ALL seams simply place right sides together and serge together. When I serge a seam together I always match up the finishing edges together so I am sure the top or bottom layer doesn’t stretch more than the other to prevent rippling. When starting and ending a serged seam always leave a long tail so it won’t unravel.
Then I placed the front right sides together with the back and serged together the side and shoulder seams. It is easiest to start at the bottom left side seam and work your way around the top, this saves time!
Since the shoulder and side seams are together it is now time to sew on the binding. This is the way I apply spandex binding, and I think it works and looks great! First you take one strip of binding and place it right sides together with the edge you are going to bind. I started out with the neckline. So I placed the binding edge in line with the shoulder seam, and simply serged around the edge slightly stretching ONLY the binding strip. This prevents the binding edges to roll outwards. When you get to the end overlap the binding approx 2". When finished outer edges together so they hold in place. Repeat for armhole edges, I always start the binding for the armholes at the side seam as opposed to the shoulder seam.
Now that the binding is serged on the edges, it is time to secure them down. I have a coverstich machine (which is great for spandex) but this could also be done on your regular sewing machine on the zig zag setting.
It is really easy to do, just wrap the binding around to the wrong side and working from the right side of the topstitch down in place over the serged seam.
For the hem, I turned under the hem allowance and again working from the right side of the top, I coverstiched down in place.
After trying on the top the center front gaped a little bit and as I played with it, I noticed a gathered pinch would look great! I measured down 3" from center front and hand sewed a gathered pinch. I went over the gathers with a stitched on my regular sewing machine to make sure the gathers would not come out.
Here is the finished top! I’m so glad I lengthened the hemline, but I also may make another one that is shorter so I can wear it with high waisted shorts or a skirt. The metallic spandex makes it a great top for going out at night as well.
Kids
All
Projects
Resources
Forum
Blog
Gallery
Book
I love this Bodice Top pattern for this time of year. The angled front and back style lines really caught my eye, and I also liked the aesthetic of the bust darts and thicker straps. If you were to check out my studio you can see I make a lot of spandex sewing projects. I thought this bustier top in particular would be great sewn in spandex, since it is form fitting.
All the small pattern pieces made it easy for me to use my scrap spandex! I had this amazing multicolored metallic spandex that reminisces the look of when oil is combined with water. A top purely in this spandex would be overwhelming, so I paneled it with a shiny black spandex I had. I love these two fabrics together!
This top pattern is originally pretty short in length (ends at belly button). I wanted it a bit longer so I could wear it with a pair of jeans and with bottoms that didn’t have a high waist. After I cut out the paper pieces I taped more paper and lengthened the hemline by 5". I extended all seams 5", and then drew a slight smooth curve to create a new hemline.
Since I am sewing with spandex I only need to use a serger, so only 1/4" seam allowance is needed on the piece edges. I decided to bind the neckline so I added no seam allowance to those edges. The front princess seams get sewn to the center front at marking, so I notched the seam allowance (bottom right image). For the hemline I added 3/4".
For the binding I folded the metallic spandex and cut a few strips long enough to cover each edge and 1" wide. I find it easiest to cut binding on a cutting mat with a ruler and rotary blade. I cut the center front panel in the colored metallic spandex and the sides in black. I thought this would be flattering on the figure and I really wanted that awesome metallic spandex to be front and center!
First was to sew the darts in the center front piece. You do not need the serger to sew the darts, just use a regular sewing machine on a small stitch length. DO NOT press these darts down, spandex does not like to be ironed (especially metallic).
Match up the seam allowance notch on the side pieces and sew to the top of the center front and back pieces. for ALL seams simply place right sides together and serge together. When I serge a seam together I always match up the finishing edges together so I am sure the top or bottom layer doesn’t stretch more than the other to prevent rippling. When starting and ending a serged seam always leave a long tail so it won’t unravel.
Then I placed the front right sides together with the back and serged together the side and shoulder seams. It is easiest to start at the bottom left side seam and work your way around the top, this saves time!
Since the shoulder and side seams are together it is now time to sew on the binding. This is the way I apply spandex binding, and I think it works and looks great! First you take one strip of binding and place it right sides together with the edge you are going to bind. I started out with the neckline. So I placed the binding edge in line with the shoulder seam, and simply serged around the edge slightly stretching ONLY the binding strip. This prevents the binding edges to roll outwards. When you get to the end overlap the binding approx 2". When finished outer edges together so they hold in place. Repeat for armhole edges, I always start the binding for the armholes at the side seam as opposed to the shoulder seam.
Now that the binding is serged on the edges, it is time to secure them down. I have a coverstich machine (which is great for spandex) but this could also be done on your regular sewing machine on the zig zag setting.
It is really easy to do, just wrap the binding around to the wrong side and working from the right side of the topstitch down in place over the serged seam.
For the hem, I turned under the hem allowance and again working from the right side of the top, I coverstiched down in place.
After trying on the top the center front gaped a little bit and as I played with it, I noticed a gathered pinch would look great! I measured down 3" from center front and hand sewed a gathered pinch. I went over the gathers with a stitched on my regular sewing machine to make sure the gathers would not come out.
Here is the finished top! I’m so glad I lengthened the hemline, but I also may make another one that is shorter so I can wear it with high waisted shorts or a skirt. The metallic spandex makes it a great top for going out at night as well.
Floral Party: 10 New Sewing Patterns
Many thanks for the spring flowers and fashions! Floral prints are sprouting up everywhere now – on dresses, shirts, and even accessories. Here is the new pattern collection from the May 2013 issue of burda style magazine that feature wonderful styles for your wardrobe. We love all the variety, check it out below!
This comfortable Jumpsuit is not intended for working in the garden, but simply for pleasure! It fits casually and is closed at the waist by a tie band.
Perfect for the garden party, but also for the office. A yoke at the waist, ending in a point at the bust, adds a classic touch to this sleeveless Dress. Two angled patch pockets on the front provide storage space for small change, keys, and business cards.
This flowery knee-length batiste Dress brings back memories of childhood days spent in your grandmother’s garden. Its figure-hugging bust section is embellished at the back with little buttons and lace, while on the skirt, stitched-on lace gives the impression of hemstitching.
This Long Shirt with low-cut armholes is a romantic eyecatcher for the beach, picnic, or garden party. An Underdress like this one is a must beneath the transparent chiffon.
Short and sweet is this loose fitting Short Jumpsuit. Here’s an airy alternative to a long jumpsuit, and when it gets particularly hot, the knee-length legs can be turned up to form shorts.
The highlight of this sexy Dress is its low-cut back. At the front it is rounded off in a boat neckline adorned with gemstones. The flounce sewn to the hem edge flows with each step like a sea of blossoms.
These loose Pants are comfy and easy to slip on when running out into the nice weather. They can be shaped at the waist by an encased tie band. These sewing instructions have step-by-step images and instructions, which make them easy to sew!
This comfortable Jumpsuit is not intended for working in the garden, but simply for pleasure! It fits casually and is closed at the waist by a tie band.
Perfect for the garden party, but also for the office. A yoke at the waist, ending in a point at the bust, adds a classic touch to this sleeveless Dress. Two angled patch pockets on the front provide storage space for small change, keys, and business cards.
This flowery knee-length batiste Dress brings back memories of childhood days spent in your grandmother’s garden. Its figure-hugging bust section is embellished at the back with little buttons and lace, while on the skirt, stitched-on lace gives the impression of hemstitching.
This Long Shirt with low-cut armholes is a romantic eyecatcher for the beach, picnic, or garden party. An Underdress like this one is a must beneath the transparent chiffon.
Short and sweet is this loose fitting Short Jumpsuit. Here’s an airy alternative to a long jumpsuit, and when it gets particularly hot, the knee-length legs can be turned up to form shorts.
The highlight of this sexy Dress is its low-cut back. At the front it is rounded off in a boat neckline adorned with gemstones. The flounce sewn to the hem edge flows with each step like a sea of blossoms.
These loose Pants are comfy and easy to slip on when running out into the nice weather. They can be shaped at the waist by an encased tie band. These sewing instructions have step-by-step images and instructions, which make them easy to sew!
No comments:
Post a Comment